Indigenous Ainu in Hokkaido (and an Onsen)

One of my goals in traveling around Hokkaido was to learn as much as I could about the indigenous people. We've visited several Ainu museums in Asahikawa, Niikappu, Sapporo, and now Akan. Perhaps that's my intention wherever I go, so as to be respectful to the history of those here. In some ways Japan is similar to the US, particularly in relation to the native indigenous population.

Last month was an interesting Ainu awareness event. Designed to coincide with the G8 Summit, many Ainu people, local Japanese, foreign residents, and even some Native Americans joined in a Walk across Ainu Mosir (Hokkaido)

This past weekend Nick and I and some friends visited Lake Akan on the eastern side of Hokkaido. There is an "Ainu Village" built for the millions of tourist who visit this lake each year. Lots of trinkets, hand-carved wooden gifts, and crap. Nick bought a cool t-shirt. We took some shots of the Ainu-ish buildings...




And then I discovered something truly remarkable. Among the many souvenir spots was the simple, jumbled shop of a truly talented artist, Masamitsu TAKIGUCHI. I was struck by the beauty of his carved statues. Upon entering his shop I met him and two of his friends, who were conversing in sign language. They were immediately friendly and we spoke mostly in gestures and smiles. It felt freer to be relieved of my language barrier. He did lipread so I was able to communicate the essential information in Japanese (my home country, my current job, my town in Hokkaido). He is a kind man with absolutely beautiful sculptures.






And then, incredibly, we went to THE MOST BEAUTIFUL ONSEN IN JAPAN, at Hotel Tsuga. I think it's officially listed as #5 in the country, but... wow. Most of my friends know how I love spas, spa products, and long showers. Onsen in Japan are like a fabulous combination of all three. The onsen was in this awesome luxury hotel. Tellingly, the incredible hotel lobby was decorated with huge sculptures by Takiguichi-san. And the onsen was just amazing, looking out over beautiful Akan lake. The dressing room had free massage chairs! And the onsen had an indoor cave, several hot and cold pools, two different massage pools (with special seats where you can relax while the jets work into your back muscles), a wooden pool inside of a giant hallowed-out California spruce tree, and of course the outdoor rock rotembero. Oh I love onens.

And I heart good art and learning about indigenous peoples. (What a conclusion!?!?)