Tuesday, January 15, 2008

I <3 Chiang Mai

On high recommendation, we traveled up to the province of Chiang Mai in northern "Lanna" Thailand. The region has a fascinating history and blend of many cultures, as it has changed hands frequently in the last few centuries. Various peoples live together in Chiang Mai: Burmese, Lao, Chinese, Thai, and "hill tribes". The old city was built in the 1200's and planned with a charming (and at the time protective) city wall and moat. I loved this city and would be willing to live there sometime.

We had a great time exploring the old city, markets, food stands, and northern Lanna-style wats.





On one special day, we decided to take a touristy trip out to the Thai countryside. We walked to some "hill tribe villages". We visited a Hmong village, which was interesting because I have met many Hmong people in Minnesota. The second village was Karan. Both places sold handmade items for the tourists, but the Karan scarves were the best quality that we saw for sale anywhere in Thailand. This beautiful Karan elder woman posed for tourists in a sunny spot. These "hill tribe villages" were very much designed for the tourists, but I prefer seeing a fake village over intruding on their real lives.



After visiting the villages we did my favorite part: an elephant ride! I absolutely love elephants after living near an elephant reserve in Port Elizabeth, South Africa. On Mother's Day 1999, my Mom and I had a magical visit with a clan of elephants at the park in South Africa. It is amazing to see their family ties and beautiful communication with one another. Asian forest elephants are smaller than their African relatives. These particular elephants are 'work' elephants. I do not know much about the economics of it, but understand that these work elephants in the countryside are much more privileged than those in the city, begging from tourists with their mahouts (handlers). I understand there are very few wild Thai elephants any more. I have read that it is preferable for tourists to support well-run countryside elephant camps, where both the mahouts and the elephants can live with their communities, rather than as isolated and emaciated beggars in the cities. I hope this is true. This sweet little baby elephant walked with mother along the trek.



Early on the ride our mahout offered to hop off the elephant and let me ride directly on her head, like the trainers do. The skin was thick and wrinkly and her hair felt like wires sticking into her skin. I was worried about riding directly on her shoulders/neck, wondering if it hurt her. But like riding my uncle's horses in Nebraska, I was reminded that these large and domesticated animals are accustomed to riders. She liked to reach her trunk up onto my lap (blowing strong-smelling elephant breath and lots of elephant snot). She was begging for food which we bought to, um, encourage her along the ride. We fed her fresh bananas and sugar cane, which we purchased in large bags from entrepreneurial villagers along the trek.





Next we took a crazy trip down the river on a bamboo raft. The river was relatively calm (not like Hokkaido rivers, on which Nick worked in September). Yet it was a good adventure and even more exciting when we came upon some other elephants and mahouts taking a playful bath in the river. I'm just glad our raft stayed together...



Back in the city of Chiang Mai, on recommendation we went for Thai massages at the local women's prison. http://www.chiangmainews.com/indepth/details.php?id=340
This penitentiary has a rehabilitation massage-training program for inmates about to be released. All funds from the massages were given directly to the inmates for use upon their release. It was a great experience and hopefully supports a rewarding training program for these women.



While wandering the streets of Chaing Mai we came upon an amazing line-up of parade floats preparing for a grand parade later that day. We were able to take photos of all of the floats, all of which has extraordinarily beautiful carvings, flowers, and golden statues. This city is amazing.

1 comment:

The A-Team said...

i seriously love the pic of you two on the elephant. please make it your christmas card for next year! omg! how cool!