Saturday, January 12, 2008

Tham Yai Phrik Vipassana Monastery, Thailand

Saddened about being away from our families over the holidays, we wanted a special place to spend Christmas. After a recommendation from friends, we took a bus and boat to the island of Ko Si Chang, near Bangkok. This island had almost no reason for tourists; it consists of a small fishing village and a lot of jungle. Our destination for the next four days was Tham Yai Phrik Vipassana Buddhist Monastery, founded in the Thai forest tradition of mediation. The monastery is situated on the limestone spine of the island, where many caves offer the perfect quiet isolation for extended meditation. The master of the monastery meditated here for decades before recently founding the monastery and welcoming monks and nuns to join him.




The nuns and monks of this monastery built all the temples and buildings on the property themselves within the last ten years. This crematorium is one of the newest and most beautiful buildings. When working at the monastery, the master taught to perform all duties with mindfulness. To be mindful means to be aware of one's breath, body movements, communication with others, and thoughts or emotions as they rise and subside. All things are changing.


Every morning we woke for prayers at 4:15AM (and later at 8PM). After prayers, still in the cool dark, nuns swept the grounds in quiet meditation. At 5:30 the monks gathered and walked out of the monastery to gather alms. They walked meditatively in single-file, barefoot and silent, along the main roads of town. Even before sunrise, many villagers stood waiting for the monks with gifts of foods and drinks. When laypeople donate food alms to Buddhist monks, their generosity earns them good karma and blessings. The exchange is ancient, sacred and beautiful to witness.



As a practice, the Buddha encouraged followers to eat only one meal a day. Buddhism encourages moderation and simplicity in all things. I observed that some monks and nuns fasted while some ate a very large meal - as much as they could stuff in! - but that having only one meal left plenty of time in the day for their meditative practice. Less time cooking, cleaning, and eating; more time for meditation. We started each meal with the laypeople and nuns offering food to the monks in a respectful way. All food was passed around, and there was plenty. Abundant leftovers were given to the villagers.


This was not my first introduction to Buddhism, but it was certainly the most rewarding experience I have yet had. I came away a more aware, centered human being. I see that mediation, especially the type taught in this particular tradition, would really be a good practice for my spiritual and emotional wellbeing. I will continue to explore.

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