Cupcakes, Camping, and a Rattlesnake

Just prior to our wedding, and in celebration of my 31st birthday, we went camping with John and Jennifer in southern Minnesota. We got a great campsite in Whitewater State Park, only a couple hours from the Twin Cities. Jennifer (an excellent baker) made us delicious mocha cupcakes. In true car-camping style, we spent the majority of our 'camping' time eating.

But we did get in a couple lovely hikes. As you can see, even in late July, it's still not too warm.



On one hike along the river, posted signs suggested we watch out for the "protected", and extremely rare, Timber Rattler. The last rattler had been seen in the park about seven years ago, but we were too lucky!

We weren't actually sure if it was a rattler, because part of the snake's tail had been damaged at some point. But oh, yes, it was!



Watch how the snake JUMPS BACK OUT OF THE BOX as the rangers catch him! (Try to ignore my terrified commentary.)





If you can't see the videos above, you can watch a video of the Whitewater State Park rangers catching the snake here.

A Lunar Eclipse, the Night Before the Wedding!

The eclipse won't be visible in the US, but it's cool to know about.

Excalibur: A Food Preservation Love Story

Excalibur is the legendary sword of King Arthur, sometimes attributed with magical powers or associated with the rightful sovereignty of Great Britain.

"Excalibur" is also the name of a fabulously sexy love song by the singer-songwriter-artist Danya River.

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Anyway...
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I was first introduced to food dehydrating in my hippie-house in Portland. A guy we lived with owned both a food dehydrator and a juicer, which I thought was very grown-up and resourceful. I had so much fun drying all kinds of things: cherry tomatoes from our garden (which I later soaked in olive oil and kept in the fridge), apples, bananas, carrots, grapes, etc. I juiced lots of stuff that I picked from the yards of friends and neighbors. Delicious and nutritious!

So I always planned that, once I grew up and stopped volunteering for a living, I would get a food dehydrator and juicer of my very own. And now I'm half-way to my goal!

At my Minnesota wedding shower, hosted by Jennifer, several of the women came together and gifted me with the ultimate fighting champion of food dehydrators: the Excalibur! (And what a great name! Seriously.) The gift was a total surprise:


What is it?


Oooooo! I went berry-picking here in Minnesota and gathered some lovely stuff:

Strawberries (The strawberries were perfectly ripe last weekend, and I had a wonderful time picking these jewels in the sunshine.)

Black Currants (I think they're kindof gross tasting, actually. First they taste really tart and exciting, but then this strange beefy-taste comes up and I have to spit it out. Nick says I'm a crazy vegetarian, and it doesn't taste like beef at all. Needless to say, I didn't get many of the black currants, but they are pretty.)

Red Currants (These are so delicious and easy to pick and very very pretty in salads! Nutritionally, red currants are a good source of Potassium and Manganese, and a very good source of Dietary Fiber, Vitamin C and Vitamin K.

Gooseberries (These little globes look something like red grapes, and taste something like blueberries or tart grapes. Gooseberries are my favorite new berry discovery! They were really difficult to pick off the spiny branches, but totally worth the effort. Next time I'll bring gloves. I hear that they are an excellent source of antioxidants, and also nutritionally they are a good source of Vitamin A, Potassium and Manganese, and a very good source of Dietary Fiber and Vitamin C.)


Tonight I had the pleasure of getting some of those berries into the Excalibur. Hooray!

The Holy Trinity (of Grocery Stores)

Life is grand on Grand Avenue! St. Paul is so great with a homey atmosphere, neighborhood festivals and walkable, pretty streets. And four farmer's markets within a ten minute drive (just that I know of!)

I live two blocks from a lover-ly little local grocery store called Kowalski's, with beautiful local organic produce and a nice mix of organic and non-organic/cheapo foods. And they sell this organic local butter called "Hope". How great is that!?

I love six blocks from a small-sized Whole Foods, with an excellent vitamin/natural body department and delicious cheese.

I live 20 blocks from the BRAND-SPANKIN NEW Trader Joe's. Today we visited TJ's for the first time, and left giddy with our bounty.

I love our neighborhood! I love food!

Brief Update

Less than 7 weeks to our wedding. We need to figure out the playlist for the dance, the chairs, the ceremony readings, presents for certain people, order some flowers online, buy some more peacock feathers, and maybe a million other little details. Most of the big stuff is figured out. Nick and I are happy together, and know what we're doing; that's what it's all about. We really enjoyed our Marriage Class and feel "ready".

Nick is working full time and taking an accounting class that is proving to be quite a bear. In addition to his law degree, he's also working toward an MBA. I'm working full time at the U and taking 3 summer classes (4 grad credits total). Crazy-making!

Perhaps my biggest current stress is our move. We're departing our cute little duplex in Midway St. Paul, over the July 4th weekend. We'll be moving into an apartment complex on Grand Avenue in St. Paul, where we will be employed as caretakers of a couple apartment buildings. More work, less privacy, but FREE RENT! It's too good of an opportunity to pass up. I'm feeling really sad to move out of our lovely little nest here, especially considering I have moved approximately 18 times in the last 13 years. After this caretaking gig, we are buying a HOUSE where I'll plant fruit trees and blueberry bushes and paint the rooms whatever color I like. Grrrrr.

For the summer, we MUST find time to: 1) take me out to the ballgame... to see the St. Paul Saints, 2) strawberry picking!, 3) camping!, 4) beer festivals!, 5) get to Madison, 6) refinish that lovely antique desk, 7) food preserving! I'll fit it all in! Just you watch.

That's the update! Sorry if I haven't replied to your emails, dear readers. It's catch-as-one-can.

Joslyn

Omaha's Joslyn Art Museum has a great new sculpture garden in the front of the museum, where the "Jazz on the Green" happens each summer. What's been recently installed here is absolutely stunning.


For those of you who haven't yet visited, this impressive building was constructed in 1931 in an Art Deco style, and in 1938 was listed among the 100 finest buildings in the United States. Today it houses art from around the world, including an enormous and rather-famous glass structure designed by Dale Chihuly. The new sculpture garden, just opened this month, features a reflecting pool and river, flanked by lovely iron sculptures of local indigenous peoples.



And hey, did I mention that the Joslyn is directly across the street from the Scoular Ballroom, where we're throwing our wedding reception!? If you're coming to town, walk over and check it out!

Summer Showers!

In May, my friend Eleanore hosted a wedding shower for me in Omaha, to which I invited Nebraskan friends and family. Ellie had lots of help in coordinating/cleaning/cooking/decorating/invites for the shower.

The hosts, Ellie and Kala got mini-cakes for everyone to taste a slice or three, and decorated them with edible flowers. Lovely!

Don't our Moms look beautiful!?

For the party, Ellie gathered reused/recycled fabric for guests to sew/stitchwitch together APRONS to take home! It was such fun activity! We drank sangria out of beautiful home-made glasses (Ellie's husband is a glass artist) and ate lots of great food. We played a game where everyone guessed the meaning and origin of various foreign language "love" words, posted around the room. They planned and executed this party masterfully! People were so generous.

My friends Kala and Jenni and I sat on the couch after the daylong day, laughing and lookin cute.

In June, my friend Jennifer hosted another bridal shower in Minnesota. People brought recipies to share.

Jennifer planned two fantastic activities for the event. At one station, we made natural body scrubs out of things like aloe, oatmeal, lemon juice, sugar, coffee grounds, etc. At another station we made chocolate truffles! Yes, really!



I'm so grateful to my girls for planning these wonderful events, to my family and friends who traveled to be there for the parties, and for all of the household gifts we were showered with!

Crafty!

Invitation-Making

After much research, advice, and cost-checking, Nick and I decided to make our own wedding invitations. Although some couples are opting for e-invitations, I still like the tradition of a paper invite, despite the work and the fact that most people who receive the invites won't care one way or another. Still, tradition rules on this one. So much of what I'm doing, for this wedding, is inspired by the idea to really explore and experience the cultural traditions that are associated with a this significant ritual. What does it mean to be a 'midwesterner', an American, a bride in a white gown? What is the historical significance of each of the choices we make?

Well, part of it is the way it's announced, and part of the story is the choice of paper. We took a trip to The Paper Depot in Minneapolis and purchased scads of blue paper, which we painstakingly cut out into envelopes and inserts. (Okay, machines did it. But we worked the little machines.) We designed the layout. Nick glued together the envelopes.

My talented mother Mary did the caligraphy of each guest name.

I wrote the addresses. We three worked together for hours. (Thanks, Mom!) Then Nick carefully hand-stamped each of the invitations with cute little 'bride and groom' and 'peacock' stamps. I printed the guest addresses and return address stickers.

And then we carefully glued the invitations to the envelopes, put the pictures and the directions into the pocket, stamped and stickered the cards, and took them to the post office! FINISHED! Relief! (We joked: "I'm never doing that again!" And it's great that we don't have to!)

From "The Center for Victims of Torture"

During college, I frequently visited a close-security men's prison in central Minnesota. I worked closely with a US veteran who was in prison for multiple murders. His mental illness and subsequent crimes were a result of his haunting memories of being held as an American POW in Vietnam for several years. He was tortured and held in a cage for years of imprisonment by his captors, and the shrapnel from his wartime injuries is still working its way out of his body. Each emerging piece of metal would form a fresh wound on his skin and soul. As a result, this man had an incredible fear of anyone he met who appeared to be of Asian descent. He would never allow an Asian person to walk behind him, much less speak to him or befriend him. His murders happened when he flew into PTSD rages. He was a Christian man, but struggled to overcome his fear and anger because of what happened to him decades ago, at war. The prison chaplain and I challenged him to try to confront his fears, and over several months of consideration, he befriended a Hmong man from whom he learned guitar, in the prison music program. It was a monumental process for him, on the road to recovery. I will never forget his story, and his tears. His story is part of why I am so devoted to the issue of torture. Tk.

In former Vice President Cheney’s steady march of media appearances, he defends the usefulness of torture and cruelty in extracting intelligence. Every American should be clear: We do not need torture to keep us safe.

Experienced interrogators have come forward to report that torture does not yield accurate or timely information. In fact, U.S. use of torture actually increased the number of terrorists in Iraq intent on killing American forces who served there. From an interrogator’s perspective, torture stands in the way of gaining valuable information.

Torture leads to false confessions and unreliable information. Though there is an exception to every rule, we should not make our rules based on exceptions.

Watch senior interrogator Matthew Alexander—who served for 14 years in the U.S. Air Force—explain why Vice President Cheney’s assertions are wrong. Alexander conducted over 300 interrogations in Iraq and supervised over a thousand interrogations of detainees.

Watch Afghanistan veteran Jay Bagwell—who worked in counterintelligence—explain why torture is ineffective and puts our troops at risk.

The former Vice President is attempting to rewrite our history by claiming that American values allow for torture—or what he calls “unpleasant things”—when we are dealing with terrorists. This argument threatens to fundamentally change the principles on which our country was founded.

Listen to what General David Petraeus, Commander of U.S. Central Command, thinks about keeping America safe:

“I don’t think we should be afraid to live our values. That’s what we’re fighting for, It’s what we stand for,” General Petraeus, Friday, May 29, 2009.

Share these videos with your friends.

Keep America safe and our values strong.

Arise, all women who have hearts!

Arise then...women of this day!
Arise, all women who have hearts!
Whether your baptism be of water or of tears!
Say firmly:
"We will not have questions answered by irrelevant agencies,
Our husbands will not come to us, reeking with carnage,
For caresses and applause.
Our sons shall not be taken from us to unlearn
All that we have been able to teach them of charity, mercy and patience.
We, the women of one country,
Will be too tender of those of another country
To allow our sons to be trained to injure theirs."

From the bosom of a devastated Earth a voice goes up with
Our own. It says: "Disarm! Disarm!
The sword of murder is not the balance of justice."
Blood does not wipe out dishonor,
Nor violence indicate possession.
As men have often forsaken the plough and the anvil
At the summons of war,
Let women now leave all that may be left of home
For a great and earnest day of counsel.
Let them meet first, as women, to bewail and commemorate the dead.
Let them solemnly take counsel with each other as to the means
Whereby the great human family can live in peace...
Each bearing after his own time the sacred impress, not of Caesar,
But of God -
In the name of womanhood and humanity, I earnestly ask
That a general congress of women without limit of nationality,
May be appointed and held at someplace deemed most convenient
And the earliest period consistent with its objects,
To promote the alliance of the different nationalities,
The amicable settlement of international questions,
The great and general interests of peace.

-Julia Ward Howe

Summer Plans

In addition to my grad class, and Nick's classes, and planning our wedding, and my full-time job.... I want to go berry-picking! The best thing about living in Oregon was the bounty of the summer harvest time. Now in my new home, I am intent to learn the spots in Minnesota for berries, apples, and other food for preserving!

I've heard of some great places for u-picking:
Natura Farms (highly recommended!)
Berry Hill
Collegeville Orchards (we visited there last fall!)

	Strawberries: Minnesota strawberry season generally begins in early to mid June in southern and central Minnesota. Northern Minnesota usually starts picking strawberries 2 weeks after southern Minnesota. The length of the season varies from year to year depending on the weather conditions but usually lasts at least 2 full weeks, sometimes closer to 4 weeks.
	Blueberries: Blueberry season begins toward the end of strawberry season. In southern Minnesota blueberries are usually ready around the July 4 holiday. As with strawberries, northern Minnesota is usually starting their blueberry season 2 weeks after southern Minnesota begins. Blueberry season usually lasts at least 3 full weeks depending on the variety and weather conditions.
	Raspberries: The start of Minnesota raspberry season usually falls between the start of strawberry season and blueberry season. In addition to summer raspberries, many farms offer fall raspberries.

And, just like Japan, it seems that the upper-midwest is blessed with lots of small town festivals. We loved the local traditions of Japanese festivals, like in Biei and our town of Furano. Here are some food festivals I'm looking forward to this coming year:

MayDay Parade, Heart of the Beast, Minneapolis, 5/3

Morel mushrooms, Muscoda, WI, 5/16-17

Beer, Minneapolis, 5/30

Strawberries, Waupaca, WI, 6/19-21

Rhubarb, Lanesboro, Minn. 6/6 (N's birthday!)

Wild Rice, Deer River, MN, 7/10-12

Raspberries, Hopkins, MN 7/10-19

Pie, Grand Rapids, MN 7/18

Blueberries, Lake George, MN 7/25-27 (T's birthday!)

Corn, Plainview, MN, 8/14-16

Peppers, North Hudson, WI 8/14-16

Craft beer, St. Paul, 9/12!!!!!

Wedding Rings!

It's so exciting! We now have beautiful pieces of art, symbolizing our love and commitment, which we can wear every day! Here's the long, maybe-not-so-interesting-to-you-as-it-is-to-us, story of our search for rings.

When still in college, I used to go with my girlfriends Trisha and Karin to the mall to buy socks and underwear and bad Chinese food, and sometimes look at rings. I always had a bit of a hard time finding stuff at the mall, even at this age, that I liked. I looked at 'eternity bands' and other things that didn't stick up out from the band. I like to DO stuff with my hands; a manicure never lasts more than a few hours. And I tend to gesture a lot when I talk. So, you know, for the sake of avoiding injurious gesticulation, it's probably best for 'my ring' to be inlaid or simple.

While living in Portland, I occasionally window-shopped for pretty jewelry in antique shops or super-sleek-schmancy stores. I was interested in both antiques and the modern stuff. Occasionally, N & I looked at stuff, some of which I maybe liked:






Then in Japan I noticed that many married women and men don't wear rings. If Japanese women do wear rings, it's usually an unadorned band or maybe a tiny little stone. In comparison, Americans seem really flamboyant and materialistic (with everything from rings to cars to homes). While living there, we chose a simple engagement ring with a modern little bend; it's sweet and uncomplicated; my hand still fits in my pocket and I don't worry about wearing the ring while making bread. I like it. We shopped around for men's and women's wedding bands, and I came to really like a modern ring by the same designer as my engagement ring:

I liked that it was channel-set (is that what it's called?) and that it had a bend in the band, similar to my engagement ring. So we tried really hard to buy this ring while in Japan, actually. We went to the jewelry store multiple times and attempted to ask questions in our terrible Japanese. We got the website of the designer and called and emailed to ask questions. All to no avail, sadly. We wanted to know basic stuff, like: 1) Where is the diamond mined from? 2) do you sell conflict-free diamonds or Moissanites or cultured diamonds? 3) What guarantees are there on the setting, and what would we do if the diamond falls out? 4) Do you have customer service in the United States? Questions 1-2 were the most concerning, as I generally believe that mainstream Japanese society doesn't know or care much about social equity and justice issues. (Sadly, that's my perspective after living there a year.) So we returned to America with photos and catalogues, but no wedding bands.

A few months into our tiny little apartment here, we were sick of our giant bedroom dresser from craigslist and decided we simply MUST get another one. I shopped around and determined that I can't afford any new furniture that isn't crap, so decided to search the antique stores. One day, on a lovely little trip to Stillwater, Minnesota, we found and purchased a fantastic dresser set at the antique mall there. And, while we were there, happened to swing by the antique jeweler and try on most everything he had. Pretties! Usually I only find one or two rings that I like, but this jeweler really knows how to pick em; I loved several. However, we spent all our savings on dressers and didn't make a purchase.

Or so I thought. In a recent distressed conversation regarding our wedding budget, I despaired to Nick that maybe we wouldn't be able to afford wedding rings at all. I was in tears; will we able to have the wedding reception at the hall? Can we feed people? We can't even afford rings!!! (I can tend to get myself in a tizzy, you know.) Quietly, steadily, he replied: I bought our rings this week from Stillwater. Yours will be ready on Friday.

Surprise and hooray! I love love love the one he choose. What a good, dependable guy I have. His earth and water personality is a wonderful balance to my fire and wind.

I like that we choose antique: it was mined a while ago (90 years ago?), and likely worn by someone with a very, very long marriage. Reusing is good. I hope that I might gain insight and inspiration in my marriage from this previous woman's ring. It has good energy. I'll probably continue to wear my engagement ring until the wedding day, and then wear this one from then on. I don't want to wear two rings on the same finger, cuz that seems uncomfortable. One is enough. And no, I won't show a pic of my new ring, but here's a lovely moonset over the frozen river in Stillwater, Minnesota. What a great town!

The History of Aprons

(as taken from an email forward, written by Anonymous)

The principal use of Grandma's apron was to protect the dress underneath, because she only had a few, it was easier to wash aprons than dresses and they used less material, but along with that, it served as a potholder for removing hot pans from the oven.

It was wonderful for drying children's tears, and on occasion was even used for cleaning out dirty ears.

From the chicken coop, the apron was used for carrying eggs, fussy chicks, and sometimes half-hatched eggs to be finished in the warming oven.

When company came, those aprons were ideal hiding places for shy kids.

And when the weather was cold, grandma wrapped it around her arms.

Those big old aprons wiped many a perspiring brow, bent over the hot wood stove.

Chips and kindling wood were brought into the kitchen in that apron.

From the garden, it carried all sorts of vegetables.

After the peas had been shelled, it carried out the hulls.

In the fall, the apron was used to bring in apples that had fallen from the trees.

When unexpected company drove up the road, it was surprising how much furniture that old apron could dust in a matter of seconds.

When dinner was ready, Grandma walked out onto the porch, waved her apron, and the men knew it was time to come in from the fields to dinner.

It will be a long time before someone invents something that will replace that ' old-time apron' that served so many purposes.



I collect aprons, and cherish two that my Grandmother Isabel made for me. And yes, I do wear aprons on a daily basis!

St. Patrick's Day in Minneapolis!

This city is full of funny surprises! This St. Patty's day, N & I met a couple friends at our favorite Minneapolis pub, Town Hall Brewery. It's a micro-brewery with awesome beers from all over the world, and exceptional house-made stuff. The food is also great: best fries that we've had!

On our drive back home, we noticed a parked luxury bus, with 30+ kilt-clad bagpipe players getting off the bus and entering a bar! PULL OVER! We went inside for a brief, free, completely hilarious concert of 20 bagpipes and 10+ percussionists, all in plaid skirts and funny hats. I'm not much of a fan of bagpipes, but who can resist, in a setting like this!? The concert was over after a few songs, and the Scottish band loaded back into the bus to drive over to 1st Avenue, a big bar in downtown Minneapolis who hosts a bagpipe concert every Patty's Day.



We got back in the car to head home. . . A few minutes down the road we noticed another parked luxury bus, with a different bagpipe band, offloading into another bar. PULL OVER! This was an anarchist-type bar with lots of caucasian dreadlocks and people with tattoos on their face; but everyone was quickly distracted by the band! It was an Irish bagpipe group of around a dozen musicians and an Irish dancer. This group wore mustard-colored skirts, funny hats, Irish flags, and shoes with giant leprechaun buckles. After a few songs these guys dissolved into the crowd, drinking merrily with the rest of us.

What a funny, randomly delightful night! (Sorry for the poor-quality pics on my cell phone.)

A European Collection

We stopped in many beautiful churches, both grand and tiny, on our travels in the Netherlands, Germany and Belgium. Here are some pics of churches, religious icons and statues that we enjoyed:

This first picture is from Midnight Mass on Christmas in the town of Hengelo, on the Eastern side of the Netherlands.

Hengelo Madonna and Child.

After the Christmas holiday we traveled just across the border to the German town of Bad Bentheim.("Bad" meaning "Bath"; this town is known for hot springs which, sadly, we did not visit).
This Jesus-on-a-Cross is made of stone and about 1000 years old. It's quite famous for it's age, and for centuries was the only statue of Jesus in the region. There is still a local saying, when someone is concerned, of exclaiming to "Lord of Bentheim!"


This next series of photos is inside the Bad Bentheim castle chapel. At that time they didn't have church pews; people stood through mass. Interestingly, this chapel is one of the rare places where the altar is lower than the rest of the floor, and is studied for this architectural oddity. The chapel was very simple: it was Catholic but built around the time of the Reformation when decorations were discouraged. I loved the light in this space. This (VERY OLD) wooden Mary statue was double-sided, with the same engraved image on both sides. It hung in front of the altar.








From the balcony.



After only one day in Germany, we were off to Belgium! This is me outside of the Beguinehof chapel in Leuven, Belgium.


Also in Leuven, we visited St. Peter's church in the town center. This Madonna statue is sortof the town mascot, hoisted around in annual centuries-old parades (and still today)! This particular statue is actually a copy of a copy. The original was too small to be seen in the parade, so they made a larger one. Then the French repeatedly came through and burned down the whole church. This is the third version.

This wooden head of Christ is believed to be miraculous. It was originally on a crucifix carved around the 1200's. In the 1700's a French army ransacked the church and burned it out. However, this head happened to be out of the church at the time being repaired. The head was lost for several hundred years and recovered in a flea market in Paris. A monk from Leuven found it at the flea market, purchased it for a small price, and returned it to the city. Some people consider this artifact to be miraculous because it 'cries' (Our tour guide acknowledged that the 'tears' could be tree sap).

St. Peter's is enormous, and was built from front to back over the course of CENTURIES of building. Consequently, the head of the church is Romanesque, and the back of the church is much newer architecture (Maybe Baroque? I've forgotten.) I liked the Romanesque columns popular in its groundbreaking in the 1400's.

Our wonderful tour guide told us that this fascinating statue is called an "Anna Trinity", depicting Anna (mother of Mary), Mary, and Jesus. This style of statue was popular in this region of the world for some time, although I'm not clear on the theology.

Another Anna Trinity.

My dear friend Amber has a special relationship with Mary, whom she prays to frequently. I'm not quite sure how she started this, being raised in Protestant and Wiccan households, but this alliance with Mary has seemed to serve her especially well while she's lived in Catholic Holland. When I was sick last year, she often visited Mary chapels to pray for my health.

I noticed many fleur-de-lis in this particular church, which was probably influenced by French styles and/or theology. I was interested to see this, as several years ago I studied the history of this symbol. There is a reputed historical connection between the fleur-de-lis symbol and the belief that Mary of Magdela was the bride of Jesus. According one version of the story, Mary, pregnant with Christ's child, fled in a boat to Gaul (Southern France) where she gave birth to Sarah. Jesus' bloodline is said to continue in Southern France. There are no historical documents indicating whether this story is true (or false), but there is considerable documentation of the belief of this story in Gaul. Whether or not it's true, I found it interesting to see the art. This picture is taken from behind the main altar in this Belgian church.

And here's Joseph, holding a lily (upon which the fleur-de-lis is designed), with Jesus.

I like this peaceful depiction of Mother and Child.


On the morning of 12/31, Nick and I traveled to Brussels, Belgium to see the tourist sites and find more chocolate. Here's Nick taking a stand at the Cathedral in Brussels with somebishop. We like the modern building just across the street from the Cathedral, which echoed the old-style towers and windows in a fresh way.

Here's another Anna Trinity in Brussels!

The amazing celing in the church of St. Nicholi, in the very center of Brussels.

St. Nicholas!

In several churches in Brussels, we found statues of St. Therese of Lisieux!

And a Belgian bar, decorated with churchy paraphernalia and stained glass windows! With house-made brews! What a great way to end the tour.